Texas Monthly claims to be objective journalism covering the great state of Texas. Important issues. The “hundred tacos you must eat before you die,” that was a notable issue. Couple of good places got mentioned, which, I might add, is increasingly unusual. One editor, as I understand the rumors, spends more time in the south of France than in tony Austin, which renders opinions about “thangs Texan” moot. That rumor came from a credible source, an author who used to be featured frequently in the pages of that magazine.
The editorial choices for Best Burger are largely subjective. However, if it’s real journalism, there should be some digging. Missed too many places. There was one notable I noticed, What-a-burger, from Corpus Christi, with corporate headquarters recently moved to San Antonio. Go Spurs. Go Cowboys.
Other than that though, there were numerous glaring omissions.
Austin’s Sandy’s. Dallas’s Snuffer’s and Melios Brothers. San Antonio’s Malt House and Chris Madrids.
Therein is evidence. This states the problem. The last time I had a truly great burger? It was Sunday evening across the street from a Taco Cabana, the original Taco Cabana, in San Antonio. Burger was at local coffee shop chain called Jim’s. Native readers are familiar with the chain, like a Denny’s, only, better by two: locally owned and locally flavored. That was a good burger, equal to the rest, maybe better than some of the ones mentioned in the Texas Monthly article. Jim’s burger was truly charco-grill in rendering, with stripes running down each side and that smoke-flavor infused in the meat. The perfect burger compliment? Fries.
That’s just one, and it’s not even on the “also ran” list. Hence the trouble with “objective” journalism. The other problem, some of the places are kind of trendy? Like, they are here these days, but next year? Gone. I’d love a burger made from fresh ground beef, heaped with fancy “blue cheese” and other expensive condiments.
I’ve mentioned it before, a fishing guide on the gulf coast recommended a burger place. The restaurant was themed as a Mexican Restaurant, but the burger was outstanding. Hawaiian Roll (fresh, home-made) for a bun. Meat that wasn’t frozen, ever, could taste the freshness. Almost tasted the cud.
What I realized, though, and this was a big one, sort of a gradual awareness, awakening, the magazines, the big media outlets, they miss the good places. The outstanding local dives are just that. There’s an essence. A taco place, around the corner from me, a BBQ, down the street from my old place in Austin? That BBQ place did get a single three-minute spot on the food channel’s show dedicated to diners, drive-ins and dives.
All of them, big media, all of them miss the two or three taco joints by me now. Not good places, outstanding, exceptional, and maybe, a little rough around the edges. Part of the appeal.
That Texas Monthly magazine was delivered by accident.
