Diners: Smitty’s in Brenham

Diners: Smitty’s in Brenham

Really, should be an honorable mention, as it doesn’t look it was ever a 24-hour joint. But still, stands up to a worthy kind of diner. On highway 290, headed to Houston from Austin? Just at the entrance to Brenham?

Smitty’s Cafe and Bakery

Quaint joint. Must’ve been a gas station/service station at one time. Looks like part of it was once a bar, but sticking with what works? Let the market define the goals and outcomes?

It’s a diner-style SOUTHERN COOKING and SWEET TEA kind of place. Help is friendly, but on a weekend morning, slightly laconic, but — small town Texas? It might not be fast, but it is done right.

Very pleasant repast.

I was raised on Kerby Lane and Magnolia Cafe (old South Congress) pancakes. I know a pancake or two. Smitty’s had the best I’ve seen in a long time, better than the recent offering from Kerby. That’s a pretty high bar to try to pass. There’s just something about the edges of the pancake itself, thick with bubble pockets. More than good. Seemed to be done perfectly.

Food was served on aluminum-looking trays, robust, “Chicken and biscuit?” Again, this is a small town. The wonderful side of the small town.

A young grandpa-looking person was bowed over his food, mouthing a low blessing. Two toddlers in tow, the chaperon couple looked like grandparents. When he got up to go to the bathroom, this is open-carry territory, the was a newish Glock, riding in holster on his right hip. Nary a second glance at anything.

Just a little joint by the side of the road. Worth stopping for, really good food.

Smitty’s Cafe and Bakery
4355 US-290, Brenham, TX 77833

Brenham Smitty’s
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About the author: Born and raised in a small town in East Texas, Kramer Wetzel spent years honing his craft in a trailer park in South Austin. He hates writing about himself in third person. More at KramerWetzel.com.

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